November 29, 2006
Grandpa’s Macaroni and the Mystery of Brown
There are ways to honor your ancestors. One is the
time-honored tradition of the estate sale. Another is to keep alive
their memory through the things they ate and the things they cooked.
This is especially true around the holidays, when
families get together and memories are shared. It is appropriate to
think once or twice of those so rudely prevented from attending by
death.
As far as I know, my grandfather never cooked his
macaroni casserole in my presence. But I have seen the recipe written
out in longhand, the ink fading and the yellow paper creased to the
point of falling apart. We keep his memory alive by converting ink to
pixels.
He grew up in a more innocent age, when the link between
grease and clogged arteries was still a mystery. So our story begins
with the first chapter, called A Pound of Browned Ground Beef.
Like many stories, the story really starts with a
flashback, to three eggs boiling on the stove. These, you may make well
ahead of time, and provide them enough time to cool to a temperature
perfectly suited to slicing.
The first chapter really starts with a large, chopped
onion, sautéed in olive oil and garlic. When the onion has softened –
releasing its onion-y goodness – add the meat and also a generous
handful of sliced mushrooms.
Here, a word about the complexities of the color brown.
Do not let it fool you into thinking that it is a simple color. It is a
slippery thing. The meat browns, and releases its flavor. But, brown
will not be locked down. The mushrooms will also brown, but will absorb.
A slippery color, that brown.
Chew on the complexities of brown another time. It is
time to turn the page to the second chapter, which we will call Boiled
Macaroni. It is a simple enough process – boil water, add macaroni for
about 8-10 minutes.
As they converse, it will be time to introduce the
browned ground meat and browned mushrooms to the rest of the family – a
large can of crushed tomatoes, a can of tomato paste, a teaspoon each of
sugar and salt and also half a teaspoon of black pepper. Mix them, bind
them together with a wooden spoon. Give each ingredient the opportunity
to size up the others.
The temptation becomes powerful to substitute. Here,
perhaps the thought strikes you to brown slices of Italian sausage. Or,
perhaps the thought struck you at the beginning to substitute bulk
sausage for ground beef.
Creativity is a powerful tool for good. Here, it would
be wrong to endorse altering someone’s original idea. It is a cheap,
passive way to claim it as your own.
However, it can be reported that upon cooking this
recipe, slices of Italian sausage were indeed browned and added; and at
no time did the spectral face of my grandfather appear, hovering above
me and frowning in disapproval. Make of that what you will.
We have arrived at the third chapter, known to some as
The Grand Introduction. It is as simple as mixing the macaroni and meat
sauce. At this point, you could declare yourself finished. Yet, you
forget your flashback. The eggs – how could you have been so careless?
After preheating the oven to 350 degrees – a
foreshadowing of things to come – turn the meat sauce into a roasting
pan. Atop that goes a layer of cottage cheese, and atop that goes a
layer of shredded cheddar cheese. Lay the egg slices on top, and you
will have reached the crucial fourth chapter, Into the Oven.
It is the climax, and it should last about 20 minutes –
long enough to melt the cheese into a top tier of fatty goodness.
Move now into denouement, and pull the pan from the oven.
Allow it to cool. In about 20 minutes, you will be able to author your
own epilogue, of people sitting around a table patting full bellies
while somewhere the spirit of a retired police officer and avid
fisherman wonders how his grandchildren ever got to be so goofy.
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