November
15, 2006
Make Pork
Tenderloin a Meal, Not Charcoal
The pork
tenderloin, for instance, is an intimidating piece of meat. It is long
and tube-like and also delicate. The average person, not emboldened by
a sense of adventure, might look at one and wonder if it might not defy
his skills, or whether it would require too much work.
Dastardly
illusion!
The pork
tenderloin is simple, almost too simple. For all its simplicity,
however, it is sometimes cruel. Its leanness makes it especially
uncompromising when it comes to heat. Apply it for too long, and it will
sit on your plate and pout, fussing on and on about how you let it dry
out.
Yet, like
all good meats, it does well when stuffed with other things. It has its
own subtle flavor, which mixes well with other ingredients. For purposes
of argument, let us consider a basic stuffing of mushrooms, onions and
spinach.
We start,
as we often do, with garlic. Pork tenderloin and garlic get on
especially well together. They compliment and complement each other, one
saying to the other, “You smell especially zestful today, sir,” with the
other replying, “As do you, my good man.”
In a small
bit of oil, we heat the garlic and some chopped onions. When heating,
add finely chopped button mushrooms – perhaps three. You must make sure
that they are chopped into fine pieces. It would be an exaggeration to
suggest turning them into a dust, but not by a great margin. Your space
is limited. Pack as much into that cavity as possible.
Here, it’s
advised to turn on the oven, and to provide the second warning about
pork tenderloin. You will want to do this job as quickly as possible, to
avoid drying out the meat. That means hitting it with a massive wave of
heat for a comparatively short period of time. Preheat your oven here to
… 500 degrees.
While this
softly heats, remove as much of the clear membrane as possible from the
tenderloin. You might ask what it is and what it is doing there. The
answer is perhaps not something worth pondering. It is deliciousness
we’re pursuing here, not a lesson in hog physiology. What is important
is that there is a clear membrane where you do not want one to be. Use
knife and hand to remove most of it, and perhaps consider trimming any
excess fat.
When the
membrane is removed, create a slit lengthwise, making sure to go deep
enough to create a cavity, but not so deep that you cut right through.
Here, a
thought strikes you. The mushrooms! Remove them from heat. You will want
them softened enough to have absorbed some of the garlic flavor, but not
so soft that they become soggy in the oven.
Dump
mushrooms in a bowl. Add a small handful of washed and finely cut
(scissors work best)
baby
spinach leaves. Also add a little shredded Swiss cheese.
Here,
perhaps the thought strikes you that this might be a job for Feta. The
presence of spinach in any cooked recipe always prompts thoughts of Feta
cheese, for they are as complementary as mosquitoes and malaria. Here,
however, let us force Mr. Spinach out into the cruel, hard world on his
own to mix and mingle with others. Feta perhaps is too bound and
determined to clump together.
Once fully
mixed, stuff into the tenderloin’s cavity, and place the pan into the
oven.
Here is
your third warning about the danger of pork tenderloin. It might go from
dangerously undercooked to charcoal in the matter of seconds. Do not
leave the kitchen, do not spend time cooking a side dish, do not even
blink. The situation here is that precarious; the fate of your dinner
hangs by a slowly unraveling thread.
Check on it
regularly. When done, the center will still be slightly pink. When is
that, you wonder? Here, your imagination will serve you well. Use it!
Exercise it!
When it
reaches that point, do not hesitate. Act with resolve. Pull the dish
from the oven. Slice the tenderloin against the grain, pile on top of
cooked wild rice, and thank the stars that you rescued the princess from
the fire breathing dragon.
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