November 8,
2006
Squash,
Beans, Corn: The Reunion of the Sisters
Once in a
great while, in our travels, we come across a food that provides
nourishment and dish at the same time.
These are
foods to be admired, to be revered.
Such is the
acorn squash, which brings us earthy goodness and one part of the
triumvirate known as the three sisters.
Who are the
sisters? Are they witches, the servants of Hecate, found on Scottish
moors telling the future to future kings?
They are
not. They are squash, and bean, and corn; three staples that come to us
from the depths of history from Latin America.
Here, we
will unite the sisters under one roof.
We start
with sister number one, the squash.
You must
cut her in half. Relax, she is not your sister, and will thank you for
it later.
Inside, you
will find a stringy pulp and some seeds. Scoop this out and lay aside.
The seeds when baked and salted provide the stuff of fine snacking.
Cooking the
squash is as simple as turning on the oven and putting the squash inside
of it. But, there is a hitch. The oven must be set at 400 degrees, and
the squash must be placed in a dish rind-side up in a little water.
It will be there for some time, and we do not want the squash to dry
out.
After 25
minutes, flip it and cook it for another 15 or 20 minutes. You will want
it to be as easy to cut with a spoon as softened butter.
While it is
in its second stage of baking, it will be time to unite the other two
sisters.
We start,
where we so often start, with olive oil, garlic and onion.
Heat the
oil over medium heat, and add the garlic and onion. If you have
mushrooms, and consider them an appropriate accompaniment with squash,
corn and beans (and they are), you will want to add them here. But, do
not let them stay big, for they might bully all others through sheer
size.
Once
everything is warm and softened, we bring together our two other
sisters.
Two
tablespoons of frozen corn, two tablespoons of black beans. Salt.
Pepper. Add them! Stir them! Love them!
You might
wonder why black beans. Why not pinto beans? How about the kidney,
biggest and reddest of the beans?
Do not let
such a foolish thing as the written word hold you back. Substitute,
combine, create! Be aware, however, that the black bean is the bean most
commonly associated with Latin American cooking. It is also small and
black, and lends certain distinct aesthetic qualities.
Once this
is together, its appearance might be lacking. Consider this crumbled
fresh broccoli florets. It will provide a small pop of tree-like green
that will evoke warm thoughts of the primeval forest.
Then will
come the big moment. The union of the three sisters.
Carefully
scoop out the insides. Beware, the squash has a thin skin, and doesnt
suffer well the insult of a carelessly used spoon. Carelessness will be
punished with a ruptured side.
Apply the
scooped squash to the corn and beans. Unite the sisters!
Stir,
considering a few dashes of ground cardamom if you have it around, until
you have achieved uniformity and even-ness in appearance.
Now, a
moment of magic. Return the squash and its sisters to its home. Mound it
slightly over the top if need be. Smooth it all over.
You are not
yet finished putting the sisters to bed.
Heat your
oven to 350 degrees. In one hand, take your acorn skin full of three
sisters. In your other, take some shredded Swiss cheese. Sprinkle one
over the top of the other, like an Alpine snow.
Your
concern, still formulating in your head, is noted
and rejected. The
three sisters are not so parochial that they mind being covered in a
blanket straight from the Old World.
Return the
squash to the old pan, standing straight up. Prop if need be. It is a
proud union, it must stand tall.
Cook until
the cheese is melted and turning brown.
You are
finished, and it has come time for you to meet the sisters in their most
delicious form.
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