February 5,
2007
The
Persuasion of Dark Chicken Meat
There are few endeavors in life for which
success is not the fruit of keen teamwork. This is just as true when
applied to the kitchen as it is in making a hit television series.
It is easy to lump the credit to the chef,
because the great ones stand athwart their kitchen, utensils at the
ready and hat cocked ever so gallantly to one side. They are
larger-than-life, heroes of their own particular epic poems.
Yet, they cannot achieve even modestly if not
for their supporting cast of ingredients. The cook’s chief labor is to
understand how they work, and to coax his ingredients to greatness.
Thus, the most important skill to have in the kitchen is the ability to
persuade food.
For some foods, this is a simple process. You
merely spread, say, peanut butter over one slice of bread, jellied fruit
over another and combine the two. For others, you must either build
experience, or at least read what others have done.
Such is the case with dark chicken meat.
The natural tendency here is to submit to the
societal prejudice against the dark meat in favor of the breast. Where
from this comes, it is not known. Compared to the dark meat, however,
the white is docile and bereft of spirit. Dark meat is rich and full of
flavor, a wild horse that must be tamed. You may do what you will to a
chicken breast, but dark meat will turn on you in a second. It puts to
test your skills of food persuasion.
Salt and pepper the skin of a leg joint then
put it into a preheated skillet. Brown it on all sides. Then, turn down
the heat and cover. Allow to cook gently for about 25 minutes, turning
only occasionally.
You are perhaps wondering how to spend these
25 minutes. The chicken will do well without you, and will appreciate a
little privacy, allowing you to contemplate how it is that situational
comedy characters always seem to wrap up their own affairs in as much
time.
Here, you can occupy yourself for about five
minutes in preparing the next step, the chopping of a red onion, the
slicing of a few mushrooms and the pouring of a quarter cup of balsamic
vinegar. These are the ingredients for your sauce.
Once 25 minutes have passed (you may push it
to half an hour if you are feeling appropriately froggy), lift the lid
from your skillet. There is juice in the bottom of the pan, a gift from
the chicken for leaving it in peace for half an hour.
Make use
of it by adding the vinegar, onion and mushrooms. Stir them together,
and allow the mushrooms and onion to soften. Here, a strange symmetry
emerges. The onions release, the mushrooms absorb. Allow this to sink
in, and blow your mind ever so slightly. You are observing one of
Nature’s miracles showing itself to you. Take stock in this, for it just
might be the most significant event of your life.
You are brewing a sauce here worthy of the
richness of dark chicken meat. The chicken thigh might appear small and
humble, but it feels nothing but white-hot contempt for weak, mild
sauces. And, if you tried to adorn it with one, it would feel nothing
but white-hot contempt for you. It would look up at you, as if to say,
“Why did you even bother?”
Let your chicken know that you won’t let it
down. Coat the chicken with your vinegar sauce as you turn it over. Feel
the respect emanate from it as the sauce works its way into the meat and
under the skin.
Cook down the sauce until it has the viscosity
of motor oil, and the chicken meat is prepared to leave its home – the
bone – with little tempting from your fork. You have worked hard to
prepare this meal, and there is no need to turn consuming it into a
chore. Spoon the sauce over the top and heap the onions and mushrooms
next to the meat. Consider, perhaps, mixing them in with brown rice as a
side dish.
Look at the chicken sitting on the plate. It
appreciates not the work that you’ve done, but that you have taken the
time to understand the way in which it works. You have done it a great
favor, but more than that have proven to be highly persuasive.
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